剛開新餐廳「At Ease」的 Paul Lee 主廚,這晚在不在「Impromptu」呢?自動門一打開,他就站在櫃台確認訂位。看見他令人欣喜,吃到他的菜也令人欣喜。這晚的菜十分美味。
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十月中上檔,Impromptu by Paul Lee 這季菜單,充滿鮮甜滋味。這也印證了前陣子他在《美食關鍵詞》podcast 中所說,他觀察到台灣人偏愛鮮味與甜味,因此不會像在美國做菜一樣把酸度拉得太高。他把這份心思編織進一道道菜裡,起承轉合流暢圓滑,完成度高,執行度好,你很容易感覺好吃,吃完又不覺得累,舒適而滿足的狀態,是最理想的。
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墨魚汁炸甜甜圈、淡菜慕斯、煙燻酸奶
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而且,這季有好些與眾不同的亮點。譬如一道「楊桃干貝冰」,竟然用上了西門町古早味楊桃汁!雖有北海道干貝,楊桃才是重點,化為凍、化為冰沙,還有果肉本人,而楊桃汁一滴進去,那酸V酸V、鹹甜鹹甜的滋味就出來了,非常台灣。法菜的組合邏輯依舊在,例如以優格作為介質,串連楊桃與干貝,以及用鹹檸檬來凸顯層次和香氣。所有材料一齊入口,和諧又繽紛,十分愉悅。
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海參也出乎意料。台灣的西餐廳哪有在用海參!而提到海參入法菜,香港的 VEA 是出了名的,而為了消除海外觀光客對軟滑口感的恐懼,VEA 的 Vicky 主廚用熱油淋海參,做成脆皮;Paul 主廚則完全無此顧慮。他把發好的海參,釀入蝦漿,再鋪上蒸熟的冬瓜片、芬馥的菊花瓣,並淋上菊花昆布高湯。不覺得這道菜出現在祥雲龍吟也不奇怪?放在晶華軒的菜單上似乎也堪用?其實,Paul 主廚的靈感來自魯菜,他看到一道菊花海參的食譜,心想,這樣的搭配應該行。也真的行!以豆漿代替鮮奶油製成的蝦漿,鮮美藏在彈性裡,和海參的軟Q完美契合,與秀雅的菊花昆布高湯同食,又有點像在吃日本料理椀物中的真丈,很有意思。菊花的幽香滿溢秋冬氣氛。
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煎鴨肝,也有不同於台灣法菜市面上的作法:湯品。防風草、芹菜根做成的高湯,琥珀色澤帶甜,且蘊含根莖蔬菜的土壤氣息,防風草也變成了圓球、變成了和進糯米粉的湯圓,和雞肉丸子、飛機菜一起浮沈。這樣一道富含秋意的湯品,主角則是煎鴨肝,二面酥脆,油嫩幫襯了蔬菜,清湯減輕了濃膩,成了一道爽朗的鴨肝,十分討喜。
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Impromptu 做豬肉主菜向來好吃,這季的南投放牧黑豬,經過十天熟成,風味飽滿,高溫煎烤反覆休息的技巧則非常精準,嫩粉色訴說了完美熟度與軟腴肉質。配菜也有意思,是酸豇豆!那發酵的酸鮮把醇厚帶甜的肉汁妝點得精神抖擻,連同新鮮的長豇豆本人,可有 before and after 的樂趣。烤芥蘭的苦味也很好,為整體增添層次。
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Paul 主廚持續培養副主廚獨當一面,煎鴨肝與豬肉主菜,原始構想都來自副主廚 Adam。
一道比較偏向美式風味的菜色,是台東鬼頭刀,我也很喜歡。鬼頭刀魚採取厚切,在炭上燻烤,內帶生,外焦香,口感緊彈緊彈,味道很棒。搭配的醬汁是酪梨與香草,調味主軸是檸檬的酸,清亮高亢,和酪梨、毛豆、番茄、香菜苗的沙拉非常速配,另外的韓式豆瓣醬、韓式辣醬則用鮮甜平衡回來。
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開了 At Ease 之後,Paul 主廚也希望 Impromptu 能向上提升,不論菜色、飲品或服務,都能拿捏得更細緻。這晚有感受到這點。至於 At Ease 有多自在與爽快,我得留待下回體驗了。
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