從不缺高級割烹壽司的台北,又多一個競爭者。「花蕉」自10月16日起敞開大門,坐鎮廚房的是擁有三十年廚藝經驗、駐台十四年的料理長岩城勉,漁獲幾乎全從日本進口,開價午餐七千元、晚餐九千八百元,主攻頂端客層。
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沒有錯,魚用得很好,這天的大間鮪魚甚至來自銀座高級壽司店愛用的供應商「やま幸」。靜岡黑鮑、富山白蝦、兵庫新烏賊、北海道縞蝦都是亮點,酒肴與握壽司整體而言四平八穩。
喜歡長崎比目魚,熟成六天,鮮味濃、肉身脆,另外附上的海膽醬其實大可不必,不過加進紅醋飯倒是不錯;靜岡黑鮑魚很美味,用清酒以大火蒸三十分鐘,再用醬油與味醂以小火煮三分鐘,透嫩入味,口齒留香;富山白蝦用昆布醃過,極甜,軟綿綿化於舌上;拿去做握壽司的新烏賊,其頭足則經炭烤,簡單施以鹽,就鮮美彈脆。
握壽司使用的是北海道七星米,飯量偏少,和魚料的融合可以。這時節已能嚐到北海道的鰤魚與縞蝦,前者甜Q,後者蜜滑;佐賀的小肌,岩城師傅的作法偏清爽,酸度、鹹度都溫柔,肉質也不硬;大間鮪魚一共三吃,赤身做醬油漬、中腹刮泥與醃蘿蔔和魚子醬配對、大腹展現素顏,而以中腹和大腹較令人印象深刻;北海道紫海膽做手捲,只見海膽不見醋飯,豪邁放送;這晚罕見的台灣食材,則是烤得皮酥的大溪紅喉,做成手捲十分討喜。
台灣的日本料理很強,花蕉的一級訂價,恐怕會經歷一段說服市場的過程— 對於食材本質的掌握、烹調的精準程度,會有更高的要求。當然,作為老闆款待親友的場所,是完全沒有問題的。
花蕉 2021年10月09日 菜單
酒肴:
- 魚骨濃湯 蛤蜊 八代海苔
- 北海道毛蟹 柴魚凍 紫蘇花
- 長崎比目魚 海膽醬 紅醋飯
- 靜岡黑鮑魚 肝醬油 蕪菁
- 富山白蝦 磯雪昆布 烏魚子
- 湯葉茶碗蒸 銀杏
- 烤新烏賊腳
握壽司:
- 兵庫 新烏賊 墨汁鹽
- 北海道 鰤魚
- 北海道 縞蝦
- 島根 赤貝
- 佐賀 小肌
- 大間 鮪魚醬油漬
- 大間 鮪魚中腹泥 醃蘿蔔 魚子醬
- 大間 鮪魚大腹
- 北海道 紫海膽
- 千葉縣 金目鯛 炭燒
- 大溪 紅喉
- 蒲燒鰻魚飯 (台灣白鰻)
- 玉子燒
- 蛤蜊味噌湯
- 麝香葡萄
- 日式蒸布丁
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