現在是去吃 Taïrroir 態芮的好時候。
何順凱主廚把他平常招待熟客與親友的隱藏菜色,紅油抄手、雞捲、牛肉麵等等,大大方方擺在菜單上了!
期間限定,即日起至9月30日止,逾期則回歸法式基本設定。
若你還是期待奶油與松露,龍蝦與魚子醬,那確實,這餐不是你的菜。但若你當過態芮的客人,知曉何順凱主廚在學生時代奠定的中餐台菜基礎,感應到他在法餐形式裡注入的台灣精神,那麼這一餐,你會覺得非常有趣。
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柴魚韭菜的變形!
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用了嫩薑、櫻桃蘿蔔
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麵衣超鬆脆!
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你會嚐到細皮嫩肉的「紅油抄手」,滑溜鮮香,口齒抖擻,飽滿的肉餡細緻無顆粒,乾淨不腥,薑味隱隱,給甜口的紅醬油襯托得甘美,自煉紅油與自製麻醬攪和出辛氣與醇厚,調味均衡優雅。
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你會嚐到豐香軟脆的「古早味雞捲」,豆皮經過油炸的火氣令人熟悉,一咬才知玄機:蔬菜清脆至極!何順凱不用魚漿,只用地瓜漿拌豬肉與蔬菜,豬是以自製紅麴醃製的豬里肌,蔬菜含高麗菜、紅蘿蔔、洋蔥、荸薺,嚐得出每一樣素材經過細心處理,肉嫩味鮮甜,菜青口感好,愈嚼愈開胃。
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你會嚐到鑊氣裹身的「凱何牛肉麵」,是牛肉炒麵來著,搭配一碗牛舌澄清湯。蠔油、生抽、糖、鹽等基本調味,是炒牛肉的起手式,為了適應西式廚房的設備,何順凱用小鍋,分別炒牛肉與麵條,就能製造真實的鑊氣。麵條也是自製,00麵粉、嘉禾牌中筋麵粉、杜蘭小麥粉的混合,韌中有彈,爽中帶柔,十分適口。
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你會嚐到輕盈曼妙的「木瓜牛奶與烤土司」,由甫獲亞洲最佳甜點主廚的賴思瑩操刀,木瓜牛奶冰糕清甜鬆化,另以木瓜糖紙增強風味,烤蛋白霜餅散發絲絲焦香,真有點烤土司的調調。
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好清爽解膩!
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這一份唱反調的菜單,錯過便難再有。我的意思是,這樣的餐廳概念在目前台灣的餐飲市場難以誕生,定價、座位數、人才招募、目標客群都有需要克服的問題。然而,這一餐展示了用 fine dining 精神做質高量小的中餐與台菜,可以呈現的新風格與新內涵。
希望最終會從這裡長出些什麼。
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